A Surfer’s Dream

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Archive for November, 2009

Joel Parkinson surf video

Nov-3-2009 By admin

Parko surfing in Coolangatta. Free as a dog.

Duration : 0:5:8

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A massive south swell hit Teahupoo on Nov 1, bringing some of the biggest and best waves of the year.

Red Bull surfers Jamie O’Brien, Raimana Van Bastolaer, Jamie Sterling, Carlos Burle and Ian Walsh were there to catch some huge pipes.

Duration : 0:1:10

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Kind of depends, with some tow-in surfing the surfer or rider has two PWC. One is to tow the rider in the wave, and the other sits inside the break, if the rider goes down. For the tow-in PWC they ride on the crest of the wave away from the breaking part to watch the rider and for big set waves coming in be hide them. The tow-in PWC can blast away from the break at an angel. For the PWC sitting inside the break, they have to shoot for shore and let the wave die down like Jason M said.

Check out the movie “Riding Giants” at the end it goes in to the whole tow-in surfing great movie also.

My brand new surfboard is a 5′10 fish with two fins. I have never surfed a board with just two fins and was wondering how this affected the performance of the board. Thankyou :)

A lot depends on the shape of the tail. I got my first twin fin around 1970 and it had a wide square tail. Right now, I have a twin fin fish with a real wide swallow tail. Twin fins offer less drag than a 2+1 or thruster set up, but makes turn on the flat a little tougher. But, you add the ability to make more radical turns. Without a central ‘pivot point’ turning is more dependent on your ability to control the board. The dynamics do change significantly, however, depending on the overall tail shape and I honestly can’t speak authoritatively about shapes and styles I have ridden. In 43 years, I have only owned two custom boards, made just for me, and both were twinnies. But, they aren’t everybody’s choice.

i surf the most inconsistent surf break in the world!!! it’s so frustrating, but it gets good when it works.
I just wana know what to concentrate on when surfing really small waves.

There is a young guy who surfs in one of the places that I frequent. He is competitive surfer with a great deal of skill, and his reputation is growing by leaps and bounds. I can’t say I know him, but I have seen him surf, and he is amazing. A local paper wrote a little article about him, and asked him how he got so good, riding in our inconsistent east coast waves. You know what I mean, three days flat, two days overhead, two weeks flat, one day head high and on and on…. His answer was really pretty simple. He surfed EVERY DAY. No matter how good or bad it was, he went out with the same board and a forced himself to get the most out of every session. Now, if you surf where there are usually lousy waves, I’m sure that even on some of the worst days, there are guys who are getting the absolute most possible out of those crappy waves. So, I suppose that must be the answer. And just think about it, Slater learned to surf in Florida.

Phase One Surf Team rider Ian Nichols surfing Manhattan Beach on custom Chris Diercks shortboard

Duration : 0:0:10

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MAUI JAWS : BIG WAVE SURFING

Nov-26-2009 By admin

Big wave riders surf 40-60 foot waves that break off the North Shore of Peahi, Maui, Hawaii. December 15, 2004 was considered the official day of OVEREXPOSURE for the famous surf break. log on to www.pdmaui.com to see more.

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Duration : 0:7:12

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Im making a surfing video but I don’t know what song to put to it.So give me some ideas but no Beach Boys.Cheers.
Any punk rock songs?

its funny how people dont really pay attention to what you said about no beach boys. request lol. anyway i think stockholm syndrome by muse is sick for a surf vid.


maybe but not likely. there aren’t good waves everyday

Hi, i need a new surfboard as mine is too big and I’m starting to do turns and snaps and stuff, so I’m wondering what sizes are good for that, for example 5′11" – 6′1" ?
Thanks.

You shouldn’t be asking this question on line. Go to a good local surf shop and you can discuss your skill level, size, local wave conditions with the folks there, who will help you pick the exact right board. I have been surfing since 1966 and I still take my surfboard purchasing questions to good local shops in the places where I surf.