In looking at this video I can not help but wonder about that moment. If you are on a wave this large, how can you ever know what is going to happen? I watched Kelly Slater win last week and he rode waves a fraction this tall. You could see him looking every which way to judge whether to go right or left to take advantage of the break. But on this monster and ones like it, how could anyone do anything besides just try to survive? At one point he is going near straight down. Amazing! But the wave doesn’t seem like it actually has any shape or direction. Just rolls up and finally crashes down. No real left or right. Is there control here I am missing besides just the obvious where he is actually just staying up? Thanks
http://www.wimp.com/giantwave/
Thanks HB. Another question though. Is it possible there are huge waves which allow a constant ride say at their middle, sorry don’t know the lingo, So a wave which starts out as a big roller, depending on the bottom contour I imagine, then crests but doesn’t necessarily break for a while, can you ride that wave at right angles at a mid point? That sounded stupid but I am not sure how else to ask it. I have seen riders coming through tubes and being "blown" out the side. Could you do the same thing on a monster where you just ride it sideways at the mid point but at 30 or 35 feet on a 60ft wave?
There is a significant amount of control plus experience needed to surf large waves. Giant waves do tend to break consistently in places depending on the wave angle and swell window at the break’s location. A surfer in general knows that they need ot go left or right when they take off. You don’t just drop in and then decide. For tow-in waves, both the surfer and the person doing the towing know where to go.
All that said, depending on how the wave breaks you can either drop lower to avoid the lip or stay high to get across the face faster. What I found when I surfed large paddle in waves years ago was the need to watch for 3 things, first if there was someone else on the wave, second, if there were bumps on the face that could bounce me and cause a fall, and third, I watched the lip well in front to know if I needed more speed or to move higher or lower on the face. After that I tried to make sure I got out of the wave if it started to close out.
If you are surfing in a competition and all you have are close outs, you drop and try to get in a couple of quick maneuvers first before the wave closes out. For those waves, watch for one that offers a decent takeoff spot that will hold a few seconds before it closes.